Every week, there seems to be a new (and slightly concerning) beauty trend that pops up on social media—milk of magnesia as a makeup primer, breast milk facials, bird poop serums, just to name a few. But a new contender has entered the chat, and people are singing the praises of using Desitin (or diaper rash cream) as an acne treatment.
But, how can a cream made for the rash on a baby's bottom be good for your face? And, the bigger question is, are all the purported acne-fighting benefits of diaper cream legit? Here, dermatologists Marnie Nussbaum, Nava Greenfield, and Michelle Henry explain. (Spoiler alert: It's all about zinc oxide, so we're going to focus on that ingredient for a minute, then get into the diaper cream part of things).
What Is Diaper Rash Cream?
Diaper creams like Desitin typically have a two-fold purpose, to both calm inflammation (aka diaper rash) and act as a skin protectant. "Many diaper creams are formulated with zinc oxide, an anti-inflammatory ingredient that helps to reduce skin irritation by repairing the epidermal barrier," explains Nussbaum. (If you recognize the ingredient, it's likely because you've seen it as the main active ingredient in mineral sunscreens.) Theoretically, diaper cream can be good for breakouts because it contains zinc oxide, adds Henry. But the keyword here is "theoretically", the situation isn't quite so cut-and-dried, so keep reading before you start using Desitin for acne.
Benefits of Diaper Cream for Acne
Not only does zinc oxide help reduce inflammation and repair the skin barrier, but it may also inhibit sebum production, reducing the excess oil that contributes to acne, says Nussbaum." Like a diaper rash, a pimple is an inflammatory condition, which needs to be quelled and healed," says Nussbaum. So yes, it makes sense, in theory, that you could use diaper cream as an acne treatment.
All of that sounds good, right? Yes, but it's worth pointing out that, while zinc oxide is sometimes used to manage acne as well as inflammatory conditions such as rosacea and acne, it's not FDA-approved to treat acne, Nussbaum tells us. Not to mention that it only works on the surface of the skin treating redness and inflammation, versus getting deeper and addressing the root cause of acne (bacteria and oil), like proven blemish-busting ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid do.
You also have to consider that it's not just the zinc oxide you're putting on your skin when you apply diaper cream. Most diaper creams containing zinc oxide are formulated with occlusive ingredients, such as petroleum, which creates a water-protective barrier to seal the skin and help promote healing, notes Nussbaum. That's exactly what you want when you have diaper rash, but not what you want when you're dealing with a breakout; diaper creams are far too occlusive to use on the entire face, says Greenfield. Which brings us to our next point...
Side Effects of Diaper Cream
Using diaper cream as an acne treatment can potentially have the opposite effect and end up clogging your pores and triggering more breakouts, rather than helping heal them, cautions Greenfield. Henry adds that this is particularly likely if you already have oily skin, to begin with, which, if you're battling blemishes on the reg, is probable.
How to Use Diaper Cream for Acne
Again, the big caveat here is that none of the dermatologists we spoke with think using diaper cream to treat pimples is a good move. That being said, if you're absolutely wed to the idea, there are a few things to keep and mind. First and foremost, if your acne is severe, it's always most important to consult a dermatologist rather than go the DIY route, advises Henry.
If not, start by washing your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any excess dirt or oil, then apply the diaper cream as a spot treatment only, rather than slathering it on your entire face, says Greenfield. Henry says you can use the diaper cream as a nighttime spot treatment, but discontinue use if you don't notice any results in two to three days. While you're doing so, make sure you're not using any other heavy face creams to not further increase the chances of ending up with clogged pores.
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